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The Callwood Distillery

The Callwood Distillery is one of the great traditions of the British Virgin Islands.  Towards the end of the 18th Century, Richard Callwood, a known buccaneer planter who owned Thatch  Island, bought the Arundel Estate on Tortola for his son, also named Richard.  The rum distillery was already in use on the estate, which remains in the hands of the Callwood family today, producing rum in the old traditional manner.

No-one is completely sure exactly how long rum has been distilled at the Callwood Distillery.  The British style of the stone and brick architecture suggests that it might date back to the mid 1700s and, although the roof has been replaced several times because of hurricane damage, the building is pretty much the same as it always has been.  There is a patch of sugar cane behind the distillery which is but a small representation of the fields that once covered large areas around.  It’s clear to see that Callwood is the Caribbean’s oldest, continuously operating pot distillery.

The Callwood Distillery rum making process

The process of actually making the rum begins when cut sugar cane is put through a pressing mill, its juice then flowing into large iron cauldrons, known as coppers.  These are boiled on a fire made by the dried husks of cane and the resulting fermented mixture is reboiled to a temperature at which alcohol is produced and run through a coiled cooling system.  The rum is then ready to be stored in either oak barrels, for dark rum, or glass demijohns, for the white rum.  According to the current owner of the distillery, Michael Callwood, the continued use of cane sugar instead of the more common contemporary use of molasses acts as a preventative for hangovers – but I’m not going to guarantee that promise!

If you’re staying around Cane Garden Bay, the Callwood Distillery is within easy walking distance, otherwise it’s fairly straightforward to drive to – everybody around there will give you directions.  When you first see it, you’ll probably find it hard to countenance the idea that the distillery is still operational.  From the hand printed sign at the entrance to the distinctly ruinous appearance of the buildings, you’ll think you’ve stepped back in time. Considering the fame of the distillery, there are few obvious concessions to tourism – what you see is most definitely what you get!

The tour itself - $2 last time I went – is a totally fascinating experience.  Michael or one of his family will show you around and explain the whole process for you in as much detail as you want.  At the conclusion of the tour you’ll be given a free shot of the rum – personally I prefer the spiced rum, but that’s just me.  It’s slightly similar to Captain Morgan spiced rum – but better.  You can buy yourself a bottle to bring home – but remember how tight the customs are now about bringing things back, so you might as well buy yourself a bottle or two to drink whilst you’re in Tortola.  The bad news is that they don’t produce enough to export so you have to make the most of it while you can.

This really is a great way to spend a few hours of your time.  And, here’s a final tip: if you do bring a bottle home and you don’t want your visitors to drink all of your rum, just show them a photo of the still where it was produced.  That usually does the trick- then you can finish it when they’ve gone!

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